Written by Brandi Hearn
Put on a plain T-shirt with your usual jeans and shoes. With so little going on, you can see quite quickly whether the pieces work together.
The neckline sits close to your neck or hangs away from it. The sleeves frame your arms or flare out. The hem finishes neatly or gathers around your hips.
These are the details I look at before deciding whether a T-shirt belongs in a wardrobe. A simple piece has to do its job well, especially when you wear it often.
Start With the Shoulders and Torso
For a classic set-in sleeve, the shoulder seam should generally sit near the end of your natural shoulder. A deliberately relaxed cut may sit farther out, but it should still look balanced on your frame.
Then look at the chest and waist. The fabric should fall cleanly, with enough room to move and sit comfortably. Horizontal pulling across the chest or stomach suggests you need more room. Excess fabric collecting at the sides may mean a different cut would suit you better.
A smaller size won't necessarily solve a boxy fit. Sometimes it just creates a tighter shirt with the same proportions. My guide to how men's clothes should fit explains what to look for across the rest of your wardrobe too.
Check the Sleeves and Neckline
Sleeves that finish around the middle of the upper arm are a useful starting point. They should have enough room to move without gripping the arm or standing away from it.
The exact length will depend on your proportions and the style of the shirt. Look at the overall balance rather than trying to hit one measurement.
A crewneck is a straightforward foundation. Check that the ribbing lies flat and holds its shape. If you prefer a V-neck, choose a depth that feels comfortable and works with the layers you wear over it.
Look at the Fabric in Daylight
Take a moment to look at the shirt away from the fitting-room lights. Can you see more through it than you'd like? Does it cling where you want it to skim? Does the collar already look uneven?
A slightly more substantial cotton can give a T-shirt structure when worn on its own. A finer fabric may sit more comfortably under a jacket. Weight alone doesn't determine quality, so consider how the fabric feels, falls, and recovers after you move.
Choose for the job you need it to do.
Test the Length With Your Trousers
Try the T-shirt with the rise of trousers or jeans you actually wear. A hem around the middle of the fly is a useful reference for an untucked style, but your torso length and the cut of your trousers matter.
Raise your arms, sit down, and look again. A shirt that rides up constantly will be irritating to wear. One that gathers heavily around your hips may need a shorter cut.
If you're planning to tuck it in, check that there's enough length to stay in place without leaving a bulky fold around the waistband.
Build a Few Combinations You Can Use
Start with colors that connect to your existing clothes. White, navy, grey, black, or stone can all be useful, depending on your coloring and the rest of your wardrobe.
Then try complete outfits:
A white T-shirt, dark denim, clean leather sneakers, and a casual jacket for the weekend.
A navy T-shirt, stone chinos, and suede loafers for a relaxed lunch.
A fine cotton T-shirt, tailored trousers, and an unstructured jacket for a dinner or workplace where that level of informality is appropriate.
Check the neckline underneath the jacket and the amount of fabric around the waist. If the setting calls for more formality, a polo or collared shirt may be the better choice. I cover the options in the casual wardrobe foundations guide.
Know When a Favorite Has Finished Its Job
A stretched collar, twisted side seam, thinning fabric, or stubborn discoloration can make an otherwise good outfit feel tired.
Follow the care label, pay attention to drying temperature, and reassess the pieces you wear most. When you find a cut that works, confirm how it washes before buying several more.
A good T-shirt should make your everyday outfits easier to put together. Once the fit, fabric, and proportions are right, it becomes a piece you can build around.
BRANDI HEARN
Strategic Wardrobe Advisor · Los Angeles
Brandi Hearn is a Strategic Wardrobe Advisor with more than a decade of experience helping accomplished men build intentional wardrobes around their careers, lifestyles, and how they want to show up.